Honduran Earthquake, then Coup; What Now?

So, if you haven't heard (because it has been all but missing from the news), Honduras experienced both an earthquake and a Coup on Sunday. A few hours from the U.S. by plane, and little notice. Well, it is the second poorest nation in the western hemisphere...

Apparently six were killed in the earthquake, which struck just north of Roatan in the Bay Islands - a gorgeous, relatively unknown string of coral and hilly islands in the Caribbean Sea.

I started this blog, partly, to try to generate greater understanding of Honduras (and interest in responsible tourism there). For over 100 years, Hondurans have been subject to the whims and wants of the elites (whether by U.S. - backed dictators, U.S. international fruit companies - United and Standard Fruit - or at the hands of the IMF, World Bank, and USAID). Now they are continually seen as only a source of cheap labor for many of our favorite brands here in America. Even today, you can go through the countryside and see many plantations of banana or coconut sitting idle and succumbing to disease while the local people can't even manage or eat from the plantations. The following photo was shot en route to the Cuero Y Salado National Wildlife Refuge.These coconut palms (owned by United Fruit, now Chiquita) are on land right next to a local village (who used to work the plantation). The company closed this plantation, yet if anyone is caught taking any coconuts, they will be arrested and fined an amount that they may not even make in a year. Oh, and coconuts are the primary source of nutrition for Caribbean Hondurans.

Fortunately, the Honduran Government only reports 6 deaths from the magnitude 7.1 quake, and no deaths from the Coup... though protests, both in support of, and opposition to, the ousted president Manuel Zelaya have been rampant. Apparently, the Honduran Constitution only allows for one 4-year term per president. Zelaya sought to change that, starting with an unofficial referendum that was scheduled for Sunday... the referendum never happenned because of the coup. Zelaya scheduled the referendum despite the supreme court declaring it illegal.

Zelaya's relationship with Hugo Chavez, as well as his programs to help the poor, has tainted his reputation with conservative politicians and business elites, even though he rose to power with the support of the country's more conservative elements. He is now labled as a socialist; but if you go to Honduras, you will see that the majority of citizens are simply fending for themselves.

For the past few decades, Honduras has seen a relatively stable democracy, contributing to a growing tourism industry. It has been known as the next eco-tourism hotspot, following Costa Rica's example. This will undoubtedly be a major setback. It is my assertion that conservative leadership will still pursue tourism, but not in a responsible manner. The Honduras Institute of Tourism, in conjunction with the federal government, has seen to it that communally held lands of the Garifuna people are systematically stripped from them to build massive Sun and Sand resort complexes (e.g. Los Micos Beach and Golf Resort); threatening the delicate ecosystems, that provide subsistence for the people, with golf courses that will use most available fresh water and dump fertilizer and pesticide into their fishing grounds. Fortunately, there have been interested parties (like Tropical Classroom Expeditions and workers in the national park system) that are working to put the power of tourism in the hands of local people. I will have more on this in posts to come.

I will be honest, this is a pitch. Not for any particular company or service, but for Honduras in general. It amazes me that bloggers aren't really talking about this (correct me if I am wrong). I mean the whole region hasn't seen a coup or war in decades; this is a big deal. I just hope it doesn't get bigger. This is a beautiful country with some of the region's most colorful people and a rich history of thousands of years. From the Art and Language capital of the Mayan culture (the ruins of Copán), to the ongoing existence of a unique culture of escaped slaves (The Garifuna), Honduras has alot more to offer than poverty and strife. But the real question remains... what can we offer Honduras?

What you can offer personally, is to learn about it. To talk about it. To not ignore it. To spend your travel dollars somewhere that it will make a positive local difference. Just a small portion of revenues actually stay in-country at most internationally-owned hotels and resorts (this is called "leakage"). Whereas, when you stay at a locally-owned hotel, you can be assured that the money you spend will stay in the community and contribute to the health and prosperity of the locals.

We always say NIMBY (Not in My BackYard), right? Well, Honduras IS our backyard!

I welcome your comments or questions; thanks for reading.

Hi Wayward Wanderers

If you are reading this, you have probably stumbled upon my blog and have no idea who I am or what the hell I am talking about. That's okay. I don't necessarily know who you are either. I want you to feel comfortable. So if you have a minute, feel free to pull up a chair. My name is Ian.

Unfortunately, I don't have a story for you right this moment. I do have plenty to say, it's just that I am not ready to say it.

My first post, however, should be about the place you see in the following picture, the Cayos Cochinos, Honduras.


When I have the time and inspiration, I will be posting a story about a trip to these relatively uninhabited and unknown islands; home of la Culebra Rosada, muchas Langostas, y la gente que tienen mas sabor, la Garifuna.

More posts will follow with stories from Honduras and the U.S.

Thanks for stopping by and if you are intrigued, check back soon!

- Ian

Cayos Cochinos - Honduras

So I found myself bouncing down the highway in the back seat of an old yellow school bus. It was just like the stick-shift bus that I rode for a spell in elementary school when my route's normal bus broke down, but with a rockin' stereo system that was blasting Reggaeton. I was on my way from La Ceiba to Sambo Creek, Honduras with my good friend Libby in search of a way to get to los Cayos Cochinos. This is an archipelago (around ten miles off the coast of Honduras) of 2 main islands and 11 coral cays in the Carribean between mainland Honduras and the larger Bay Islands; Roatan, Utila, and Guanaja.

The bus drove through Sambo Creek for about ten minutes before its journey ended, literally at the end of the road where it met the beach; and in front of the only Sambo Creek, proper, "hotel." Sambo Creek is a coastal town of about 8,000, mostly Garifuna, inhabitants. It has a very Caribbean feel.


Traveling in Honduras isn't terribly dangerous, but there are some times that you want a little security when it comes to your belongings (more specifically, everything you depend on)... The hotel didn't have any locks on the doors. It could be a place that you wouldn't have to worry about someone going into the room, but as the only travelers around, we kind of stood out and certainly appeared comparatively wealthy. In general, Garifuna are incredibly friendly, but desperate economic situations lead to desperate measures. More on this later.

We learned that there are two hotels a short walk down the beach. So, off we went across a creek running into the ocean where local Garifuna women and children were playing and washing clothes. We quickly acquired three young "guides" that walked with us the half-mile or so to the gates of the two hotels. Mind you, these gates are on the beach...

Seeing the contrasts between Sambo Creek and these two hotels alludes to the reason for the gates. Sambo Creek was made up almost entirely of Garifuna people. If Honduras is poor, the Garifuna are the poorest. Their land is communal and held in charter, however, the pressures of tourism are threatening those communal lands with government seizure. Anyway, the Garifuna are black and their laid-back, fishing, dancing, drumming and tranquillo lifestyle is seen as inferior by many. Their story is fascinating though! Covering the Caribbean coast of Central America from Belize to Nicaragua, the Garifuna are all descendents of captured Africans that escaped their slave ship(s?) and settled on St. Vincent. They did a little mixing with the natives and their entire population was eventually relocated to the (British) Honduran Bay Islands, where they thrived and spread along the mainland coast. They are also the most friendly people I have ever met. Since they are so communal and friendly, it is no surprise that they have no problem asking you for your things. "Damé tu jugo." This is why the hotels just outside of town have iron fences and gates on the beach. What tourist wants to be pestered by these beautiful people?

We stayed at Helen's and it was a luxurious stay compared to most of the other accommodations I had stayed in within Honduras. It did have the only in-room rodent that I saw too. The place is really nice though with a couple of jungly pools, a beautiful beach, a really nice courtyard and rooms, and a good restaurant serving local - Garifuna caught - fish and lobster, among other things. We had a pleasant conversation with the owner and he said he would inquire about a boat to the Cayos Cochinos. It wasn't long before a couple (a Canadian scientist and his Beautiful Honduran Girlfriend) showed up and inquired about a trip to the islands and that sealed the deal; four was enough justification for a Sambo Creek boat owner and fisherman to take us to the islands for about $15 each. It was early to bed that night.

We met on the beach in front of the hotel just after sunrise. The boats bow was beached and the motor was churning and bobbing in the white wash from the waves. With no time for formalities, the four of us waded into the wash and jumped aboard. And we were off - cruising at full throttle over the swells and into the sunrise.

There was never a doubt about our captian being a fisherman. As we were heading to the islands, he held his bare foot on a stick with line wrapped around it, the end of which was draped over his knee and dragging in the water behind us. Who needs a fishing pole anyway?